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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

A Shocking Accolade

This little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the family utterly shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this eatery definitely delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this gastronomic achievement.